Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

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Ewraysure
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by Ewraysure »

RichardG wrote:
Fri Aug 16, 2019 9:22 am
Thanks for the tip. I was thinking about doing that as the gloss finish on the neck is a bit sticky, was afraid I might spoil the look of the guitar though. Would love to see your pictures
You be the judge.

Of course the back of the neck is not visible when it's played. I think the clean line between the sanded and the original finishes looks good (achieved by sticking some insulating tape on the neck before sanding) - and the front of the guitar has a brushed finish anyway. I'm not bothered about any problems this might cause if when reselling as these guitars are keepers - and anyone buying it would only be impressed by their playability.

This is the YouTube video that was the main source for the work - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOfbLcWcarY&t=114s. I did this first on a Squire Tele and was knocked out by the improvement. It's no exaggeration to say it took about ten minutes to do and the difference was immediately noticeable. I also made a few final passes with talc on the 1500 grit sandpaper which was recommended by someone, somewhere.
Back of Revstar neck.jpg
Back of Revstar neck.jpg (87.01 KiB) Viewed 2186 times



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Saul
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by Saul »

Looks great to me. (Y)

I have never been a fan of gloss necks anyway and am not quite sure why manufacturers make them. For me it inhibits smooth movement up and down the neck.
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RichardG
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by RichardG »

Ewraysure wrote:
Fri Aug 16, 2019 2:29 pm
Great guidance!
I've got a 620 and an 820 Revie. The existing action on the 620 which I bought on ebay is perfect for me, so I'll duplicate of it's nut dimension and depth of cuts.
You mentioned that the original nut was super-glued. Was this problem when you knocked it out?
The superglue was on the face of the nut bonding to the top end of the fretboard. I've occasionally known this to take out a bit of wood from the fretboard when tapping out the nut but this didn't happen. It did leave knobbles of superglue which I carefully scraped off with a craft knife and gently filing the offending bits being careful not to eat into the fretboard wood itself. As the nut is set in a very slight slot it's best to try to tap it gently from the side edges of the nut, alternating tapping between both ends several times to loosen the bond to avoid damaging the slot. If it still won't come out there are plenty of tips online that might help. I did use a small amount of wood glue to the base of the new nut, not supposed to be as bad for the guitar if you ever need to replace again. Good luck.

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RichardG
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

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Ewraysure wrote:
Fri Aug 16, 2019 2:52 pm
You be the judge.
Very nice, think I'll give it a go.

Quietly
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by Quietly »

My first post to and I would like to thank RichardG for his brilliant first post which saved me from going insane LOL. I ordered a Graphtech BT-6041-00 TUSQ XL, a previously mentioned reference on this board and received a nut for a Pacifica which was 41mm in length as in 2mm too short. Which GTR Music charged me £15.49 including transport Ouch, Guitarbtzmusicstore charged me £9.39 for the Graph Tech PT-6114-00. Better late than never as they say.

Oh and if anyone on here as a Pacifica and would like a brand new Graphtech BT-6041-00 TUSQ XL Tusq nut for it at an agreed reasonable price then just PM me.

Onwards and upwards.

Quietly

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parametric
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by parametric »

Welcome to the Forums - <Quietly> . . . . . a very original handle BTW :lol: (Y)

Glad to hear your problem has been laid to rest . . . . .

You are now a member of (and I paraphrase a Slogan for a branded Lager here . . )

"Probably the BEST Music Forum on the Net."

:wink:

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Quietly
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by Quietly »

parametric wrote:
Tue Jan 21, 2020 4:35 pm
Welcome to the Forums - <Quietly> . . . . . a very original handle BTW :lol: (Y)

Glad to hear your problem has been laid to rest . . . . .

You are now a member of (and I paraphrase a Slogan for a branded Lager here . . )

"Probably the BEST Music Forum on the Net."

:wink:

parametric
Why thank you for the welcome parametric and may I say your handle's not bad either. I'm feeling at home already so I will try and find my way around here without making too much noise. :wink:

Quietly

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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by Quietly »

Several members have already established this but I thought you would like to see the mail I received from graph tech after I asked them about the 6041.

Thanks for getting in touch!

That nut is actually for the Pacificas, and won’t be long enough.

For the Revstar you’ll need a PT-6114-00

End of mail with a link that I cannot post LOL sorry if I am :/:

So hopefully this one can now be put to bed and we can make some music.

Quietly

P90_Luv
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by P90_Luv »

I like the technique to slice cut with an Exacto or razor blade around the nut perimeter on all sides first hopefully breaking any finish or glue that could fragment when moved. Use a small wood block (on the nut length) and tap with a light hammer blow from the neck toward the headstock. Not my favorite task as things can go bad pulling rosewood chunks out when it releases. The factory (and you) should use just a dab of superglue but sometimes there is excess which makes for a nasty bond. I've seen the rosewood square edge touching the nut look like a German Shepard did the finish work with his teeth after the nut was wrenched out! Back in the days of yore, brass nuts were all the rage. I'll come back to that.

Seems there's no love for Urea? Actually Yamaha uses urea nuts with their acoustic and classical lines. Urea is a resin material (not plastic urea formaldehyde) artificially made and claimed to have great sound characteristic. Unlike plastic when cutting or filing slots, it releases small particles not rolled up hunks. Basically a dense material they use where they could certainly make a Tusk-ish flavor. Not a cost saving measure, more of a manufacture preference. But is a swap worthy?

Marketing used to claim brass nuts add sustain and tone difference you'll hear with the heavy mass passing string vibrations into the wood. That is pretty amazing as the purpose of the nut is to "break" the string angle at a micro point where the string touches it.That would be about .020" of contact point with the rest of the nut slot angled away. So not exactly a massive tone generator there. Soft plastic adsorbs vibes so sure, not preferred. Nut material being dense makes total sense but fake bone vs. real bone or brass being voo-doo magic? Me thinks it's still marketing. My Urea nut will stay as listed on the table of unreal elements as exceeding the high-mass density level of frozen cheese. Hey, and where are those brass nuts these days anyway?

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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

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The unsold brass nuts are all in the Gibson factory.

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Quietly
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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by Quietly »

P90_Luv wrote:
Sun Feb 16, 2020 1:30 am
I like the technique to slice cut with an Exacto or razor blade around the nut perimeter on all sides first hopefully breaking any finish or glue that could fragment when moved. Use a small wood block (on the nut length) and tap with a light hammer blow from the neck toward the headstock. Not my favorite task as things can go bad pulling rosewood chunks out when it releases. The factory (and you) should use just a dab of superglue but sometimes there is excess which makes for a nasty bond. I've seen the rosewood square edge touching the nut look like a German Shepard did the finish work with his teeth after the nut was wrenched out! Back in the days of yore, brass nuts were all the rage. I'll come back to that.

Seems there's no love for Urea? Actually Yamaha uses urea nuts with their acoustic and classical lines. Urea is a resin material (not plastic urea formaldehyde) artificially made and claimed to have great sound characteristic. Unlike plastic when cutting or filing slots, it releases small particles not rolled up hunks. Basically a dense material they use where they could certainly make a Tusk-ish flavor. Not a cost saving measure, more of a manufacture preference. But is a swap worthy?

Marketing used to claim brass nuts add sustain and tone difference you'll hear with the heavy mass passing string vibrations into the wood. That is pretty amazing as the purpose of the nut is to "break" the string angle at a micro point where the string touches it.That would be about .020" of contact point with the rest of the nut slot angled away. So not exactly a massive tone generator there. Soft plastic adsorbs vibes so sure, not preferred. Nut material being dense makes total sense but fake bone vs. real bone or brass being voo-doo magic? Me thinks it's still marketing. My Urea nut will stay as listed on the table of unreal elements as exceeding the high-mass density level of frozen cheese. Hey, and where are those brass nuts these days anyway?
I think you would need very sensitive hearing to be able to note the difference between a Urea and Tusq nut. I changed mine as it was also a chance to polish the frets and do a general set up but if I am honest I cannot hear a change in tone at all but then I am not a Bat. Mind you aesthetically I think it looks a little better but I suspect that not many people will notice and say what a lovely nut you have. :roll:

Quietly

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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by Quietly »

Just to follow on, now that we have all confirmed the Tusq PT-6114-00 is the correct replacement; in my case it was not a straight replacement.

Before changing the nut you need to measure with a Vernier the height between the bottom of the string groove on the 6th E String and the base of the nut. Do this on both nuts, to my surprise the Tusq nut was 0.90 mm more than the original Urea Nut. However on the 1st String groove to the base of the nut it was slightly less.

The result was to make them almost identical I had to file off 0.90 mm from the base of the nut at 6th String end and nothing at the other end. Measuring with the Vernier and taping off an angle off 0.90 mm the bass end to 0.00 mm the high end. 5 minute job and it was perfect.

I should point out that the above is based on the original Urea Nut being perfect and in my case it was.

Quietly

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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

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Hi. I'm a new member. I have a 502 (and 420). I've ordered the TUSQ nut for it and wondering what space between E6th and first fret people have found to be "ideal"? Although I ordered it before finding this site and thread and starting to wonder if it's necessary/worth the effort. FWIW I'm using D'Addario 9.5s.

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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by P90_Luv »

Are you talking about cutting (filing) the new nut slot depth regarding string gap for the low E?

The low E should be around 0.4mm or until there is the tiniest gap between string and first fret when fretted at the 3rd fret. This helps reduce sharp intonation issues at this end of the fretboard. Some use a single piece of photo copy paper to check the gap on the first fret when the 3rd is fretted. The paper strip should slightly drag when pushed and pulled.

I am not a hater of the factory nut. An application of graphite powder or pencil lead in the slots and she will perform as expected. I'm not a subscriber that your average electric musician can hear any change with open strings using a brass or bone nut. However, this may be something with acoustic instruments where a bone-ish nut can indeed be heard?

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Re: Replacing the standard revstar nut with TUSQ

Unread post by LMN »

I'm thinking of sanding off the bottom of the nut to get the desired height (I prefer not to file nut slots - did it once - but not again). The E6th gap to first fret being the standard measuring point. Thanks.

PS. Yes I feel the nut is a bit high and can hear it occasionally.

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