Saddle problem with A-series guitars?

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SteveC
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Saddle problem with A-series guitars?

Unread post by SteveC » Sat Jan 28, 2012 5:05 pm

I am currently thinking of purchasing either an AC1M or an AC3M guitar. I like everything I have seen and heard about the A-series guitars, but something I read somewhere makes me very hesitant to part with my money. If I understand the information correctly, the new SRT piezo pickup is actually incorporated in the saddle (i.e. not just sitting underneath it). So what happens if you need to lower the saddle in order to improve the action? Is this a fatal flaw in the design? I'd appreciate comments from anybody who knows anything about this.
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Saul
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Re: Saddle problem with A-series guitars?

Unread post by Saul » Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:45 am

Can't specifically comment on the AC1M/AC3M but I do own a guitar where the pickups are actually built into the saddle however this does not stop you lowering/heightening it because it sits within a slot in the bridge that contains shims which you can remove or add to depending on which way you want to go.

I have not had the opportunity to get a close look at either of these guitars but perhaps they use the same system? It's not ideal but it does work. In any case, Yamaha guitars are usually pretty well set up straight from the box so you may not in fact need to alter anything :)
Saul
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Tartanlad
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Re: Saddle problem with A-series guitars?

Unread post by Tartanlad » Fri Mar 23, 2012 9:24 pm

Saul wrote:
I have not had the opportunity to get a close look at either of these guitars but perhaps they use the same system? It's not ideal but it does work. In any case, Yamaha guitars are usually pretty well set up straight from the box so you may not in fact need to alter anything :)
I aint picking hairs here Saul but my Yamaha FG730S acoustic guitar i bought from

strings direct certainly came with the saddle far to high and i had to then mistakenly
pay extra to get the saddle sanded lower and i say mistakenly WHY ? only because i could easily have done such myself on an A4 sheet of sandpaper by just sanding along the bottom of the saddle
so much approx 4mm on my saddle from underneath as it was far to high when it came

I did fone strings direct regarding such a set-up a day or 2 before this and they did say they would do such but the cost for the mail to Scotland would be mine alone
and so i went to a guy instead here and since this ive heard a bone saddle is best on this
make of Yamaha the FG 730S especially and so i sent for a custom - bone saddle made by a guy
in the USA and this cost for the saddle £25.00 in our money and also postage cost
but well worth the money as the bone saddle gives out the best your strings give in sound
and the strings last longer also as well as sound better with a bone saddle

This guy makes the saddle to say just a touch longer than the original Yamaha plastic saddle
and very slightly wider and higher so in my case mine fitted with width perfectly from the beginning
and all i did was sanded along so much from underneath to take some of the height away
and a very slight touch from both the sides for lenghth and the saddle then fitted like a glove
without the see-saw effect which the plastic saddle had and so a better fit in the slot.

Well worth the money for a bone saddle in the Yamaha FG 730S acoustic guitar although having sais
i used to play with the Martin 80/20 bronze light size 12 strings but the bone saddle in my opinion
gave them to much a trebly sound as they are a bright sounding string but the brightness with the bone is much more plus lasts much longer but the reason i now put on D'Addario EJ 16 Lights Phosphor Bronze which has toned the brightness down a bit . as i prefer inbetween both base and treble sound.

Meantime all good guitaring :)
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FrenchGuit
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Re: Saddle problem with A-series guitars?

Unread post by FrenchGuit » Fri May 11, 2012 2:42 pm

Hi,

I own a Yamaha AC3R. I can confirm the piezzo is placed under the saddle but it is no glued to it.
I have changed the plastic saddle with a bone saddle I formed myself.

If you plan to change the saddle be aware the surface in contact with the piezzo must not be totally flat (it is often said in tutorial it must as flat as possible but it is not true) else you will experience some unbalanced strings with bass and trebble louder than the 2 center strings. If you take a closer look to the original plastic saddle against a flat surface you will notice it is not flat at all. Form you bone saddle with the same shape.

Instead the surface must be slightly concave (for about 0.05mm) in the middle in order to have good balance in the pressure of each string on the 6 piezzo.

Hope this will help :)
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Acuestick1
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Re: Saddle problem with A-series guitars?

Unread post by Acuestick1 » Sun Oct 04, 2015 8:02 am

I own the AC1M and as a luthier, I have done much customization to it. The saddle can be replaced easily enough, by simple "lift out" process. There is nothing preventing you from changing the saddle, like on any other acoustic. Hope this info helps!
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