Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

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Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by EX5_etc » Thu Jun 27, 2019 4:02 am

A few months ago I was surfing online when I came upon a listing for a used Yamaha MDF3. The price was about one half of what these devices normally sell for. The original manual and original box were included. The pictures showed a very clean unit and a manual in pretty good condition. I did not really need one but I always was curious to have one due to its small portable size. Plus I needed an “upgrade” project to work on, so I bought it.

The MDF3 was shipped in its own box, the losers did not use a shipping box. An inspection of the box revealed that it had been through several dealers of new and used music equipment in the USA. The MDF3 powered up with batteries and with an adapter that I had available. But the 1.44 MB drive had a mechanical problem and was out of order. That was most likely the reason of the low price it sold for, a reason not revealed by the known online dealer of used music equipment (that would be “Music Go Round” in the USA).

I swapped the damaged drive with a used Sony drive that I keep around for testing purposes. Everything worked well so I decided to go on with the upgrades. I had no intention to keep a mechanical drive in that device since before I made the decision to buy it.

Two upgrades were performed. First the floppy drive was replaced by a USB emulator. Second the 16x1 LCD screen with no backlight was replaced by a 16x1 white-letters on a black-background LCD with backlight. The remaining text describes the upgrades in detail along with some issues I had to deal with.

The USB emulator (GOTEK model SFR1M44-FU-DL) came from China and had the usual upgrade done to it. I first discussed this upgrade several years ago on this site (as well as on EX5tech.com) for the SY99, QY700, QX5FD, etc. I am talking about the addition of one or two switches on the emulator. I went with a less complicated version of it this time. Instead of drilling two holes on the front and adding a small board with switches and resistors I simply drilled one hole and mounted an ON/OFF switch with a glue gun, as the picture below shows.

USB_1.jpg

The 22-ohm SMD resistor R1 on the emulator board was removed and in its place I added a series combination of a 47-ohm resistor and an ON/OFF switch. I did not have a 22-ohm resistor in my parts bin but as I have said in the past a 47-ohm one works perfectly well. This small circuit simulates the removal of the USB stick that is required by the emulator in order to switch “virtual” floppies in the form of folders on the stick itself. If someone adds the switch/resistor combination removal of the USB stick is not required. I did not wish to do that in any of my emulators and thus all have received the single (or dual) switch upgrade. The second switch (of momentary type) simulates the pressing of both black buttons on the emulator and it is not always necessary.

The picture also shows (though not very clear) that only jumper S1 was used on the rear of the emulator. This setting has worked well in other upgrades and thus I kept it here as well. No firmware/OLED upgrade is planned.

The next picture shows a close-up of the resistor/switch combination. A small soldering iron with fine tip and a magnifier were used for the work on the PCB. The traces are small and a big iron could damage them permanently.

USB_2.jpg

Another item to observe is the missing 3-pin (2-color) LED near push-button switch S4. In the past that was always present but hidden inside the emulator. A hole had to be drilled for the LED to be relocated on the faceplate. Some tests on another project revealed that even if I added one it would not work. They have changed the firmware and now all the work is done by the green LED already on the board.

After the work on the emulator was done, it was assembled, mounted on the MDF3 and tested with a tiny USB stick that is not a stick. It is actually a tiny SD-to-USB adapter that houses a 2 GB SD card and comes with a cute chain. The card was formatted in FAT32 system on a Windows-7 computer. Several folders named as “001”, “005”, “104”, “603” and so on were created on the stick and were filled with midi and other files. Each folder has a size just short of 1.44 MB to simulate a 1.44 MB floppy disk. That process has worked well for me on several occasions and requires no additional software to be used. As a reminder, we NEVER put a folder named “000” on the stick, that is the top level directory and we NEVER do anything with it.

USB_3.jpg

That was the easy part of the upgrade. The LCD was supposed to be as easy but it did not exactly turned out to be that way. Let me tease you with a view of the final result before I go through the details:

Front_1.jpg

Not bad, right? Almost OLED-look you could say. I had some work done on the picture to make it look more real because my camera cannot exactly catch the proper colors as they appear in real life. They are as in that picture, the LCD background is not deep black. I had to be fast taking that picture and synchronize my camera and the power switch on the MDF3. That is the boot “rolling” screen that displays only for a few seconds and then disappears.

One thing you can observe immediately is that the text is not centered (top to bottom) on the MDF3’s window. It cannot be, the old display and the new one are not exactly a perfect fit for each other, even though their outer dimensions and mounting holes placement are about the same. Left to right alignment is perfect but the boot screen has one extra space on the left side. That was Yamaha’s decision. The last picture of this post shows a more “centered” look. Here is a view of the old 16x1 display before I removed it:

LCD_1.jpg

They used a mounting bracket because the LCD seats below the other PCB. It is slim, it does not have a backlight. The big TOSHIBA controller on it takes care of everything. A black cable grounds the metal frame of the LCD to the metal frame of the floppy drive. You can also see the ribbon cables. They are flexible but not soft. I don’t know what we call these cables, I used a soft flexible one in my upgrade. If anyone knows the exact terminology of “hard” ribbon cables please post it here. To remove the old LCD one has to first raise the tab of the LCD-ribbon connector on the other half of the MDF3, pull the cable out and then remove the mounting screws. The LCD and its attached cable are then freed.

For the replacement LCD two displays were tested. I only took pictures of the final result though. The displays came from BuyDisplay.com and as the next picture shows they are the ERM1601-2 series. One was white-letters on blue-background and the other was white-letters on black-background. Both worked fine but the looks of the white-letters on black-background won the race.

LCD_2.jpg

Two things become immediately obvious if you compare the “before” and “after” pictures. The new display is thicker, seats higher and thus the placement of the mounting bracket had to change. Additionally the new display has 16 pins compared to the 14 of the old one. I did not solder the new ribbon cable I made on the LCD, I chose to solder a 16-pin right-angle header to it so that I could replace it if needed. Good thing I did because I fried an LCD. The header height was lowered because space was limited in that area. The ground cable was attached as before.

Only two mounting screws were used. The bracket screws could not be used, the holes did not align well as the picture shows. Since the new display is thicker, longer mounting screws were used. Two 4mm-long washers were placed between the display PCB and the mounting posts so the mounting screws would not put any tension on the display PCB.

The new pin configuration is the same with the old one, for the first 14 pins. Pins 15 and 16 supply power to the LCD backlight. The mating connector is shown in the next picture, attached to the LCD. Notice that something is missing from this display PCB compared to the one in the previous picture. That’s because the original LCD was fried and was replaced several weeks later with a new order from China.

LCD_3.jpg

There is a resistor attached to one of the ribbon wires as you can see. So lets have a closer look and explain what it is used for.

LCD_4.jpg

As I explained in another thread about the white-letters on black-background LCD upgrade for the Yamaha SY99, it is not easy to achieve that black background color. You have to play with the contrast voltage (it is fixed on the MDF3) as well as with the brightness of the backlight. Pin 16 of the new display (cathode) must be connected to pin 1 (ground) and pin 15 (anode) must be connected to pin 2, the 5V supply voltage. But if you do that the backlight is too bright and the “black” background is anything but black. My tests revealed that if a 150-ohm resistor is placed in series with either the positive (pin 15) or negative (pin 16) backlight LED supply, you achieve more pleasant results as far as “black” background is concerned. I chose pin 15 and that’s where you see the 150-ohm resistor. Insulation of the soldering joints with heat-shrink tubing was required due to the various grounded metal elements that can be found near the display. I could have insulated the resistor too but I chose to leave it exposed so it could cool down. Not that it gets warm though, it’s that engineering spirit in me of thinking ahead of time about whatever could go wrong. The main reason why I am not a happy person.

The other side of the LCD ribbon cable is not shown anywhere but it required some work too. The original ribbon cable was “hard” as I mentioned. When it was inserted into the LCD connector and the locking tab was secured, there was pressure applied to the wires. The new ribbon cable was not up to it due to its softness. Thus I removed about 6mm of insulation from every wire (all 16 of them), twisted all the strands of each wire together and applied solder in every one of them. The process sort of created 16 “hard” wires that could take the pressure applied to them by the LCD connector on the main MDF3 board and they could also easily be inserted into the connector.

As it may also be obvious I had the proper tools to make the connector shown in the previous picture. That cable requires a lot of tedious work. If you wish to try a similar upgrade and you are not up to it you can simply solder the ribbon cable to the new display and avoid a lot of this work.

After doing all this I had one more task to work on, the contrast voltage of the LCD on pin 3. The good thing is that there is no need for a negative voltage due to the small size of the LCD. The bad thing is that Yamaha has a fixed voltage applied to pin 3 through some resistors on the main PCB. I wanted to have the option of variable contrast available all the time, externally to the MDF3.

The manual of the ERM1601-2 explains that the only component needed to achieve this is a 5k-ohm variable resistor attached between pin 3 of the LCD and the ground. Unfortunately the MDF3 did not offer too much space for this type of addition, thus a small-size potentiometer was needed. I did not have a 5k-ohm one but I did have a stereo 10k-ohm potentiometer that I could use. Here is a set of views showing the finished work on that part:

CON.jpg

I modified a small metal bracket stored in a box with spare parts I keep collecting for future projects. The bracket was attached near the MIDI OUT connector and it was secured with the screw that secures the main PCB on the plastic frame. Proper size holes were drilled on the bracket as well as the metal plate of the MDF3 for the potentiometer and its shaft after the correct distances were estimated. Then the dual 10k-ohm potentiometer became a 5k-ohm one by soldering its corresponding terminals to each other. Finally the “wiper” and one side were soldered together (making it a variable resistor) and two long wires were attached to it. Again, a lot of tedious work was required but I am used to it. A full view of the completed design and wires is shown below.

WIR_1.jpg

One of the two wires had to be grounded. At this point I made a mistake because Yamaha has implemented a stupid design to automatically switch from batteries to external power. I had no clue about this until after the display was fried. There is no service manual about the MDF3 to be found anywhere. If someone has it please post it somewhere. Lets have a look at the following picture.

WIR_2.jpg

The yellow square shows where the ground wire of the contrast control is connected to, now. To the left of that screw is another screw securing the negative pole of the combined battery power. That is where the ground wire was connected to, initially. They are supposed to be on the same potential but they are not. Somewhere in that circuit there is a diode that helps to cutoff the batteries when the main power is applied, so that the dry/alkaline batteries do not start to charge. Then the leads of the potentiometer I used were too long and as I brought the two halves of the MDF3 together and closed the device, those leads touched the metal bracket of the floppy drive bay. Power was applied and nothing showed up on the display that during testing was working fine. The backlight was on however.

I did some checking and realized that due to Yamaha’s design and my omission to insulate the leads of the potentiometer, the LCD contrast circuit was damaged and it needed negative voltage in order to properly display the characters on it. I replaced the LCD with the blue one, put paper insulation between the potentiometer leads and the metal floppy frame and everything worked fine. At that point a new order went out for more black displays that arrived from China this week. After the display was replaced the picture was taken. You can see how long the new ribbon cable is and how nicely everything fits together. Another view from a different angle follows.

WIR_3.jpg

The blue square shows where the ground wire of the contrast control circuit is connected to. The yellow square shows the other wire of the contrast control circuit connected to ribbon wire 3 (LCD pin 3) while the 3rd pin of the LCD connector on the main PCB is empty. Insulation was applied on that junction too, as explained before.

A final inspection was carried out and the two halves were brought together making sure they did not “bite” on any of the newly added wiring. The last picture shows that a midi file has been loaded to the MDF3 and it is ready to be played by the connected keyboard. Some work was done on this picture too to make it resemble reality due to the camera issues I mentioned earlier.

Front_2.jpg

Well, that’s all folks. One more upgrade project is finished. Who knows what the next one will be…
DrF
Motif XF6, DeepMind 12D, MicroArranger, MicroKorg S, SY99, SY85, QS300, PSR1000, WX5, EX5R, A5000, TG500, TG55, RM50, QY700, QY100, QX5FD, MDF3, MJC8, EMX2, YDP2006, REV500, EMP700, EQ500U, MCS2, AW16G, Axiom Pro 49, AKAI Pro Advance 49, Arturia KeyLab mkII 61, and a few other things by Behringer, Evolution, Philips, Tascam, Technical Pro, Yamaha, etc, etc,... I wish I had time to use all this stuff; I am not even pro. :-)
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by parametric » Fri Jun 28, 2019 2:14 am

Those Datafilers are actually very useful little devices . . . .

THAT is a superb and detailed account EX5_etc - with EXCELLENT labelled pictures . . . . ((i))

Thank you for taking the time to do it so well.

You are an asset to these Forums Sir! 8-)

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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by EX5_etc » Sat Jun 29, 2019 12:56 am

Thanks for the kind words parametric.

These forums have offered advice and more to me over the years so when I have the opportunity I give a little something back. Who knows, someone with a datafiler or other similar device may find the information posted here useful in their upgrade projects. I do recall that we have a member with a 16x1 LCD on a sequencer or drum machine who wanted to upgrade the display but did not know how. Unfortunately I don't recall who the member was. Hopefully he will spot this thread at some point.

One of the reasons I wanted to have the MDF3 is to use it as a portable tester when I have to check some used piece of equipment that I wish to buy. Easier to carry around than a big keyboard. Assuming that the device under consideration has MIDI connectors of course. I don't buy anything without MIDI connectors. That takes us to your recent thread about the absence of MIDI connectors on many modern keyboards. A whole other subject...

Let's hope I find the time to use this one as well as everything else I upgraded or plan to upgrade.

Regards,
DrF
Motif XF6, DeepMind 12D, MicroArranger, MicroKorg S, SY99, SY85, QS300, PSR1000, WX5, EX5R, A5000, TG500, TG55, RM50, QY700, QY100, QX5FD, MDF3, MJC8, EMX2, YDP2006, REV500, EMP700, EQ500U, MCS2, AW16G, Axiom Pro 49, AKAI Pro Advance 49, Arturia KeyLab mkII 61, and a few other things by Behringer, Evolution, Philips, Tascam, Technical Pro, Yamaha, etc, etc,... I wish I had time to use all this stuff; I am not even pro. :-)
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by Mymaha » Sat Jun 29, 2019 10:50 am

I have a Midifiler MFD3 and have about (qty) 20, 1.44 disks full of material downloaded from a Roland PMA-5. I can only reload my PMA-5 with the midi songs. Is there a way of converting the Yamaha MDF3 files into midi files so I can import it into a DAW or a program like Sonar? Thank you.
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by EX5_etc » Sat Jun 29, 2019 2:34 pm

Mymaha wrote:
Sat Jun 29, 2019 10:50 am
I have a Midifiler MFD3 and have about (qty) 20, 1.44 disks full of material downloaded from a Roland PMA-5. I can only reload my PMA-5 with the midi songs. Is there a way of converting the Yamaha MDF3 files into midi files so I can import it into a DAW or a program like Sonar? Thank you.
I am not sure I understand the question completely. The MDF3 does not use its own proprietary format as some other Yamaha devices do. The manual states what can be done:

MIDI data recorder capability
The MDF3 is able to receive, store, and re-transmit MIDI System Exclusive data from nearly any MIDI instrument with bulk data transmission capability, including devices made by manufacturers other than Yamaha. The MDF3 can also read and transmit bulk data files created by the Yamaha MDF2 Data Filer and the QX3 sequencer in that device’s MDR mode.

Sequencer capability
The MDF3 is capable of recording sequence data to disk, and playing back this data in realtime. It can also play back data files written by other MIDI devices using Standard MIDI File format 0/1, as well as ESEQ sequence files created by the Yamaha QX3, etc. (You can also play back the MDF2’s SEQ data). Other convenient playback functions allow you to play a program of up to 99 sequence data files in a specified order, and to play back files repeatedly in an endless loop.

If you can clarify what exactly you mean by "Yamaha MDF3 files" I might be able to provide a more precise response.

Regards,
DrF
Motif XF6, DeepMind 12D, MicroArranger, MicroKorg S, SY99, SY85, QS300, PSR1000, WX5, EX5R, A5000, TG500, TG55, RM50, QY700, QY100, QX5FD, MDF3, MJC8, EMX2, YDP2006, REV500, EMP700, EQ500U, MCS2, AW16G, Axiom Pro 49, AKAI Pro Advance 49, Arturia KeyLab mkII 61, and a few other things by Behringer, Evolution, Philips, Tascam, Technical Pro, Yamaha, etc, etc,... I wish I had time to use all this stuff; I am not even pro. :-)
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by Mymaha » Sun Jun 30, 2019 8:14 am

Hi DrF. The files on my floppies have a naming convention like:
MDR_03.B03 etc. I’ve done tons o work on a Roland PMA-5 (essentially) eight track sequencer. The unit filled up quickly so I would export all the songs on it via the MDF2 & 3. Now, in 2019, I’d like to upload them to Sonar X2 or GarageBand (or similar) on my laptop and work with the audio.

The PMA-5 only allowed me to do a bulk dump to the MDF and, as well, I can only reup my stuff to the PMA-5. Is there a way of parsing the MDR_##.B## files and extract the midi info from there? I guess an alternative would be to export one midi track (out of eight) each and record it to the MDF or am I making things too complicated?

Can I attach one of the container files here if you’d like to take a look? Thanks.
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by EX5_etc » Sun Jun 30, 2019 7:26 pm

Mymaha wrote:
Sun Jun 30, 2019 8:14 am
The PMA-5 only allowed me to do a bulk dump to the MDF and, as well, I can only reup my stuff to the PMA-5. Is there a way of parsing the MDR_##.B## files and extract the midi info from there?
I doubt there is anything we can do about this. The MDF3 is simply a digital recorder that does not know anything about the particulars of the files that show up on its display. As you mentioned you will have to load files back to the PMA-5 and take it from there.

DrF
Motif XF6, DeepMind 12D, MicroArranger, MicroKorg S, SY99, SY85, QS300, PSR1000, WX5, EX5R, A5000, TG500, TG55, RM50, QY700, QY100, QX5FD, MDF3, MJC8, EMX2, YDP2006, REV500, EMP700, EQ500U, MCS2, AW16G, Axiom Pro 49, AKAI Pro Advance 49, Arturia KeyLab mkII 61, and a few other things by Behringer, Evolution, Philips, Tascam, Technical Pro, Yamaha, etc, etc,... I wish I had time to use all this stuff; I am not even pro. :-)
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by squishmusic » Fri Aug 09, 2019 6:05 pm

That was an excellent and very detailed pimping of the MDF3 EX5_etc
As a non-DIY-electronicy guy I didnt get most of it; I certainly wouldnt attempt such a project.
I made a right balls up of trying to repair my MDF2 belt - as per the thread elsewhere on here.
I am now awaiting a 3rd MDF2 to arrive from eBay and I pray that it works and reads my disks.
I then expect I will run into similar issues as Mymaha with trying to get data from the MDF2 files - I want to get the MIDI data from my QY into some better form of data-backup.
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Gear 2019: Alesis Micron, Casio VL1, Novation RemoteZeroSL, Yamaha DJX1, Yamaha QY70, Yamaha SY35, Yamaha MDF2 - - iOS: Nanoloop, Nanostudio, iMPC, iMaschine, Thicket.
Gear I miss: almost all of what I got rid of! :D Nostalgic for my Yamaha TG33 & RM1X. Good days with them :D
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by welshchris77 » Fri Oct 04, 2019 8:19 am

Wow this is a great project, I have just purchased a MDF3 from japan from ebay and hope to make some upgrades also so could be asking for advice when I start if that is ok? :wink:

Just looking at some of the emulators on ebay, the SFR1M44-U100K is alot cheaper than the SFR1M44-FU-DL do you think this unit is compatible with the MDF3?
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by EX5_etc » Sat Oct 05, 2019 3:20 am

Hello welshchris77.

Feel free to ask as many questions as you wish. Myself and others are here to help by offering our expertise and opinions wherever we can. The forum was created to help its members after all.

The straight answer to your question about the SFR1M44-U100K is that there is no way to know if it will work. These USB emulators keep changing mostly in terms of firmware but also of hardware as the earlier postings in the topic revealed. I don't have access to any specialized information about the SFR1M44-U100K or even the SFR1M44-FU-DL.

Several years ago I tested a few emulators. The SFR1M44-FU-DL gave me the least trouble. Basically every device I care to use these days has been upgraded with an SFR1M44-FU-DL unit. But the earlier versions of the SFR1M44-FU-DL are slightly different compared to the latest versions of it. Some hardware modifications were made by the manufacturers and the Chinese-built firmware is different too as I hear. I don't have access to that firmware so I cannot provide more details.

If you can afford the risk buy the cheap one. Try it. If it works good for you and don't forget to let us know. If not you have to buy the one I tested with my device.

Regards,
DrF
Motif XF6, DeepMind 12D, MicroArranger, MicroKorg S, SY99, SY85, QS300, PSR1000, WX5, EX5R, A5000, TG500, TG55, RM50, QY700, QY100, QX5FD, MDF3, MJC8, EMX2, YDP2006, REV500, EMP700, EQ500U, MCS2, AW16G, Axiom Pro 49, AKAI Pro Advance 49, Arturia KeyLab mkII 61, and a few other things by Behringer, Evolution, Philips, Tascam, Technical Pro, Yamaha, etc, etc,... I wish I had time to use all this stuff; I am not even pro. :-)
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by welshchris77 » Sat Oct 05, 2019 7:39 pm

EX5_etc wrote:
Sat Oct 05, 2019 3:20 am
Hello welshchris77.

Feel free to ask as many questions as you wish. Myself and others are here to help by offering our expertise and opinions wherever we can. The forum was created to help its members after all.

The straight answer to your question about the SFR1M44-U100K is that there is no way to know if it will work. These USB emulators keep changing mostly in terms of firmware but also of hardware as the earlier postings in the topic revealed. I don't have access to any specialized information about the SFR1M44-U100K or even the SFR1M44-FU-DL.

Several years ago I tested a few emulators. The SFR1M44-FU-DL gave me the least trouble. Basically every device I care to use these days has been upgraded with an SFR1M44-FU-DL unit. But the earlier versions of the SFR1M44-FU-DL are slightly different compared to the latest versions of it. Some hardware modifications were made by the manufacturers and the Chinese-built firmware is different too as I hear. I don't have access to that firmware so I cannot provide more details.

If you can afford the risk buy the cheap one. Try it. If it works good for you and don't forget to let us know. If not you have to buy the one I tested with my device.

Regards,
DrF
Thank you,
I think I will go with the SFR1M44-FU-DL for now to be on the safe side, the other may work but don't want the headache of it not or causing too many issues. I have never tried an emulator before but have always been intrigued by the idea.

Did the firmware on yours come already installed?

I plan on using the MDF3 with my old Yamaha DJX Keyboard, I got it maybe 20 years ago as it was all I could afford at the time, it was often put down at the time as it had a few gimmicks but despite its looks actually had some great sounds and functionality, its main downfall was it had no floppy drive and could only store 4 or 5 user songs backed up by eight D size batteries 8O ,I knew about the MDF3 filter at that time from the manual that came with the DJX but believe it cost almost as much as the keyboard so wasn't an option, at the time I had to record the audio to cassette tape of the step recorded songs and tracks I had spent hours making to free up memory to make new songs, I remember it being very frustrating at the time.
Anyhow I always vowed I would one day get an MDF3, I probably don't really need it now but am getting it anyway :D
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Re: Yamaha MDF3: Black 16x1 LCD and USB emulator upgrades

Unread post by EX5_etc » Sun Oct 06, 2019 3:58 am

The firmware is always installed on the emulator by the manufacturer and the end users don't have access to it. But there are those few that have the knowledge to take things a bit farther. Here is an interesting OLED modification:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K31S2xqZIk

I did not do that one even though I have the tiny display for use in other projects. Some members on this forum have done the OLED modification and are happy with it.

I did not need the MDF3 but the price was too good to pass it up. As with many others, I did not have the money to buy all these nice toys when Yamaha created them in the 1990's. Now I do and I keep collecting the toys I always wanted to have. The sad part is that I do not have the time to play with them. Life and its turns...

DrF
Motif XF6, DeepMind 12D, MicroArranger, MicroKorg S, SY99, SY85, QS300, PSR1000, WX5, EX5R, A5000, TG500, TG55, RM50, QY700, QY100, QX5FD, MDF3, MJC8, EMX2, YDP2006, REV500, EMP700, EQ500U, MCS2, AW16G, Axiom Pro 49, AKAI Pro Advance 49, Arturia KeyLab mkII 61, and a few other things by Behringer, Evolution, Philips, Tascam, Technical Pro, Yamaha, etc, etc,... I wish I had time to use all this stuff; I am not even pro. :-)
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