Support Our Community!
We’re proud to keep this forum running as a place for enthusiasts like you to connect, learn, and share. To help cover hosting costs and keep everything running smoothly, we invite you to consider becoming a VIP Member for just $1 per month.
As a thank you, you’ll gain VIP status, enjoy a completely ad-free experience, and know you’re helping sustain the forum for everyone.
I love the Muse but I noticed especially in the dark all the light bleeding literally everywhere and you can actually see the circuit board inside. There's so much bleeding that it's distracting in darkness but probably ok in well lit areas.
I'm wondering was my unit missing all the shields, sleeves or internal covers etc. or is this typical Moog construction.
Anyone with a Muse please inspect yours and let me know. This is probably how it is but it's also a $3,500 unit not a toy.
It might actually be open intentionally to allow air flow throughout the unit.
I watched a Moog video and it has the same issue on theirs.
Attachments
Last edited by davlippo7 on Sun Sep 08, 2024 4:15 am, edited 2 times in total.
1) Screen randomly cutting off but comes back when you switch the voice
2) The key action is terrible as the key travel must return all the way to the top or it won't trigger anymore. I lose notes constantly in playing runs chords etc. and it's not the note limit I checked. I hope the Moog One doesn't do this. I don't see an option for touch sensitivity or contact adjustment. If the key system is this bad you'll have to play on a controller instead. Maybe mine is broken.
3) On occasion I get a corrupted noise going off and have to turn it off
I discovered, I think, the answer to number 2. The triangular buttons in the corners of the dashboard brings up some velocity settings and then there's a "Velocity" button I think for setting modulations. It reminds me of Yamaha "64" that prevents the full range of samples from being played. What happens here is that the key doesn't trigger any sound about every 10th press or if you don't press exactly perfect.
On some voice programs the programmer set the keys to not respond well which is silly. If I deactivate the "Velocity" modulation I think it plays properly again but too aggressively. It seems a bit too unpredictable or wonky and when I lose notes in a run or chord it's aggravating. Now I know what to look for to try and fix it. Hopefully an update will make it more stable but what's most worrisome is that it's not a global setting, you have to fix it one every single voice that has an issue.
I hope the other issue isn't a poor sensor design like once the key is slightly down it won't retrigger at all. Maybe that had to do with the velocity modulation being engaged.
Gordon Reid in his SoS review had the following to say on the keyboard
what I didn’t like was the keybed — or, to be more precise, its response to aftertouch, which felt jerky and abrupt. So, whenever I programmed a destination for this, I added Slew as the Function Source in the Mod Map to smooth the response and make it more musical.
That concerning the AT specifically I'll have to investigate as I did not notice.
My issue was the velocity setting dropping a note here or there but then many of the voices don't have this feature engaged. Now I'm paying more attention to it as a sanity check.
I had a weird rattling sound under the hood. Sounded like a spring vibration with every key press you could hear with sound off or low. When I tapped on the bottom cover it rattled. I decided to open it up but didn't see anything out of place. I reseated all of the cards and I heard that same spring sound so I determined it was the card latch mechanism. It might be a good idea for everyone to press their cards into the board as who knows what could happen during shipping or card installation. I fixed it as it was bothering me.
That's what was rattling were the socket latch springs on one or more cards not sure how many but when I pressed the cards down to check them I saw several of the latches move inward. So I wonder is this wise if as promoted as a stage or performance board?
If it's getting bumped around a lot in transit can the latches work loose? I suppose it won't even unlatch but could rattle like mine did. Time will tell but mine is a studio board so it's fine.
Thought I'd post this in case someone else has the same issue.
Yes, the latches could really work loose if heavy bumping around. Even worse they are vertically mounted and seem quite high modules. Laptop style spring secured modules would be a more robust solution.
Considering that for example Yamaha was using soldered 2032 batteries (as I found in SY77) and not in holders, they were already thinking of this possibility.
The sockets however make for a very nice modular construction and easy servicing. I am certain also Korg has sockets for the PI compute modules they use in Opsix/Wavestate/Modwave.
Yamaha Montage 6 / Yamaha MODX6+ / Yamaha P515WH
Roland GAIA2 / Roland TR-8S / Roland JX-08 + k25m
Arturia Keystep 37 / Roland SP-404 mkII / Yamaha SY77
Yamaha HS7 / Yamaha HS4 / Yamaha Pacifica 112VM
As soon as one comes out and unit gets returned they will fix it without notice. Only a matter of time.
I didn't think to measure the cards but probably 3" plus tall looking in from the rear vents.
I thought about leaving off my right endcap which opens it up to superior airflow. That side is hidden so wouldn't matter. I was thinking you could easily make vented end caps if it gets too hot and goes out of tune a lot.
In an air conditioned studio it's not a problem but I guess if you're outside in heat or on a stage etc. might need some additional airflow.
I think the vents on the top will already accomplice appropriate cooling. Does it run really hot?
Ultimate test would be Greece in the summer
My Montage froze last summer during a heatwave. Was too much for both man and machine.
Yamaha Montage 6 / Yamaha MODX6+ / Yamaha P515WH
Roland GAIA2 / Roland TR-8S / Roland JX-08 + k25m
Arturia Keystep 37 / Roland SP-404 mkII / Yamaha SY77
Yamaha HS7 / Yamaha HS4 / Yamaha Pacifica 112VM